In the 1980s, Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, whose fashion brand is Comme des Garcons, set off a trend of subverting traditional fashion design with its extreme weird design. Maison Martin Margiela was deeply influenced by Kawakubo Kawa.
Martin Margiela has always been famous for the technology of deconstructing and restructuring clothes. The genius of deconstruction is Martin Margiela. His keen eyes could see the structure of the dress and the characteristics of the cloth, such as the deconstruction of the gown into a short jacket, and the creation of a sweater from a large number of scratched old socks.
Martin Margiela’s design is not only very environmentally friendly, but also surprising because the designer’s endless imagination is hidden behind his works. Martin Margiela has been using old hangers and old portrait models to display its new designs.
In 1981, the first Rei Kawakubo was held in Paris fashion show, when she began to receive global fashion attention, her dress is a simple nickname, called ‘beggar’; and lead to early 1980 loose, deliberately three-dimensional, broken, asymmetry, don’t expose figure fashion design trends.
The design inspiration of this publication is well known from the irregular and defective culture in Japanese aesthetics. Her creative concept and characteristic caused a lot of Fashion Critic, has also led to the clothing design junior designers.
‘I don’t like clothes that show up.’
Her design is just like its name, independence and self assertion. She will be the traditional asymmetric three-dimensional geometry model, Japan’s elegant and calm overlapping innovative tailoring, with neat lines and gloomy tone, and creative combination
So she is different from other designers.
Because she had no formal academic painting and cutting of the professional training, so between the designer and the traditional bondage. Her clothes are not regular two sleeves and normal proportions.
Her first fashion show, also breaking the usual mode of fashion show; she replaced pop music with a hunting lamentations, with strange makeup and untidy hair, will smear model.
Sometimes the clothes she displayed were like the unblemished loose clothes worn by prisoners in Nazi concentration camps, which were assembled on the stage with minor modifications.
What they have in common is the deconstruction and reorganization of oversized, the use of rags to create new designs, and the challenge to traditional aesthetic identity and gender-based UNISEX concept.
I think the difference between them is that Martin Margiela ’s design has rough shapes. He pursues the beauty of imperfections. There is often a state geometric pattern that has not been processed. Cutting through clothes to express mental state will select clothes for model characteristics. Wear clothes and wear clothes will produce two very different fabrics.But the design of Rei Kawakubo has fine detail, such as pleating.