Traditional Dye Plants of Manipur

TraditionalSanjeev Rana Knitwear Department, National Institute of Fashion Technology Abstract Manipur is one of the richest states in plant biodiversity in the North Eastern states of India. Different ethnic groups, residing in Manipur before the introduction of the chemical dyes into the state, used the dyes extracted from the plants. Women in Manipur practice dyeing using varieties of plant leaves, flowers and tree barks. The natural dyes were obtained from plants and have been used by weavers for imparting different shades of color to different clothes, bamboo baskets, flowerpots, fishing nets, etc.

There are more than 50 plants species in Manipur, which are used as dyes right from ancient times, before chemical dyes were introduced in the state. This review is an attempt to describe the dyes extracted from plants by the Meitei Community of Manipur. The traditional methods of extraction as well as the plant parts used in the extraction have also been mentioned briefly. These locally extracted dyes are still used for dyeing of handloom products of the state, which are famous all over the world for their indigenous designs and quality.

MANIPUR Manipur is one of the state of the eight sister states of northeast India. The state capital of Manipur is Imphal. The state lies at latitude of 23°83’N – 25°68’N and longitude of 93°03’E – 94°78’E. The total area covered by the state is 22327 sq. km and the total population of the state is 22,93,896 [4]. The state is bounded by Nagaland in the North, Mizoram in the South, Assam in the west, and by the borders of the country Myanmar in the east.

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The state has its own emblem, bird and animal. The State Emblem is Kangla Sha.

The State Bird is Nongin and the State Animal is Sangai [4]. [pic] Fig. 1. Location map of Manipur 1. Dye Yielding Plants The process of dyeing was started during the reign of King Taothing-Mang (264- 364 AD). The system of dyeing progressed during the reign of King Yanglao Keiphaba (969-984 AD), who introduced the beautiful textile Hij Mayek (later known as Hijam mayek) colourfully dyed, and worn by the women folk of Manipur. Some plants, which were used by the people of Manipur for dyeing are: Table 1 |S. No. Scientific name |Local name |Description |Use | | | | |A middle-sized tree with brown bark. It is a rare plant | | |1. |Acacia catechu Wild |Kabokhajee |occurring wild along the border with Myanmar. A fast |Preparation of local | | |(Mimosaceae) [1]. | |reddish black dye is obtained from the heartwood of the |inks and dyeing cotton| | | | |plant by boiling in water.

Small chips of the heartwood |fabrics. | | | | |are boiled in water for about one hour. Then the dye is | | | | | |concentrated by evaporation in iron vessels. | | | | | | |Used as adhesive for | |2. |Achyranthes aspera Linn. |Khujumpere |Whole plant is first ried, burnt to ashes and is mixed |various colors and | | |(Amaranthaceae) [2]. | |with water. This dye is |making the color | | | | | |brighter. | | | | |A middle-sized evergreen tree found wild in Tamenglong | | |3. |Amoora spectabilis Miq. |Oongang |district.

As the local name suggests, a pale scarlet |Used for dyeing cotton| | |(Meliaceae) [1]. | |color is obtained from the hardwood by boiling in water. |fabrics. | | | | |Acids and alkalies are added before use. | | | | | |A slender tall palm with annulated stems. Commonly | | |4. |Areca catechu Linn |Kwa pambi |cultivated in the Jiribam sub-division.

A copper red dye |Used for Painting | | |(Arecaceae) [1]. | |is obtained from the nuts. The crushed nuts are mixed | | | | | |with water and allowed to stand for a few hours. On | | | | | |adding lime, a copper red dye is obtained. | | | | | | | | |5. Averrhoea carambela Linn. |Rupuan thai | |Used as a good | | |(Oxalidaceae) [2] | |Mature fruits are taken and its juice is squeezed into |adhesive to the | | | | |the water containing tub. |Ureirom (Bixa | | | | | |orellana) dye. | | | | | | | | | |A wild, glabrous twinning herb of common occurrence. A | | |6. |Basella alba Linn |Uroksumbal |deep purple color is obtained from the ripe fruits of |Used for dyeing | | |(Basellaceae) [1]. | |this plant. Different colors can also be obtained from |fabrics and in | | | | |the leaves and stems.

The dye is generally extracted with|painting. | | | | |water. | | | | | |A moderately sized deciduous tree, commonly found in the | | |7. |Bauhinia purpurea Linn |Chingthrao |Manipur Valley, sometimes cultivated for the beautiful |Used for Painting | | |(Caesalpiniaceae) [1]. |angangba |flowers. A rose-purple dye is obtained from the fresh | | | | | |flowers.

The fresh petals are directly applied on the | | | | | |cloth or surface to be colored. | | | | | |A shrub of very rare occurrence. Grows wild in Ukhrul | | |8. |Berberis manipurana Ahr |Oonapu |district. As the local name suggests, a beautiful yellow |Used for dyeing | | |(Berberidaceae) [1]. |dye is obtained from the stem and roots by boiling in |mulberry silk | | | | |water. Acids and alkalis can be added for concentrating |fabrics(locally known | | | | |the dye. |as Kabrang). | | | | | | | |9. |Bixa orellana Linn |Ureirom |A small evergreen tree, commonly cultivated in the |Used for dyeing | | |(Bixaceae) [1]. |homestead compounds. A pale red dye is obtained from the |locally made cotton | | | | |arils of the seed. The seeds are soaked in cold water to |towels and | | | | |extract the dye. |loin-clothes and also | | | | | |in painting. | | | | |A branched annual herb, commonly cultivated during the | | |10. Carthamus tinctorius Linn |Kushum lei |summer season. Either a golden yellow dye (locally known |Used for dyeing of | | |(Asteraceae)[1]. | |as Sana Phige Machu) or a pink red dye can be extracted |cotton and silk | | | | |from the flowers using different extraction techniques. |clothes and also in | | | | |The fresh petals are wrapped with the leaves of |painting | | | | |Stachyphrynium imbricatum (Roxb. K. Schum. (Local | | | | | |name-Leihoura) and then allowed to ferment for a few | | | | | |days. The fermented petals are mixed with water and | | | | | |filtered. The yellow dye so obtained is concentrated by | | | | | |boiling.

Addition of common salts results in a golden | | | | | |yellow dye, while a pink red dye can be obtained by | | | | | |adding alkalies obtained from the ashes of Achyranthes | | | | | |aspera Linn. (Local name-Khujum pere). The flowers are | | | | | |offered to God on Manipuri New Year’s Day (Cheiraoba). | | | | | | | |11. |Celosia argentea Linn |Haorei angangba |An erect glabrous annual, commonly cultivated in the |Used for painting. | | |(Amaranthaceae) [1]. | |gardens throughout the state. A pink red dye is obtained | | | | | |from the flowers. | | | | | |An annual climber, commonly cultivated for the flowers in| | |12. Clitoria ternatea Linn |Aprajita |the Manipur Valley. A blue dye is obtained from the dried|Used only for | | |(Papilionaceae) [1]. | |flowers. The dried petals are powdered and then mixed |painting. | | | | |with cold water. The mixture is allowed to stand for 3-4 | | | | | |hr and filtered. | | | | | |A glabrous shrub of common occurrence in wastelands and | | |13. Clerodendrum bracteatum |Kuthap |river banks throughout the state. A pale green dye is |Used for painting. | | |Wall. Ex Walp. | |obtained from the leaves. The fresh leaves are crushed | | | |(Verbenaceae) [1]. | |and boiled in water until the dye is fairly concentrated. | | | | | |After cooling, acidic dye mordants are added before use. | | | | |A middle sized deciduous tree, grows wild in Tamenglong | | |14. |Cordia grandis Forst |Lamuk |district. A black dye is obtained from the fruit and bark|Used for painting. | | |(Boraginaceae) [1]. | |of this plant. The dye is extracted in cold water. | | | | | |An annual with rhizomatous underground stem, cultivated | | |15. Curcuma domestica Valeton |Yaingang |throughout the state. A golden yellow dye is obtained |Used for dyeing and | | |(Zingiberaceae) [1]. | |from the underground rhizomes. The dye can be extracted |painting. | | | | |either in hot or cold water containing ashes extracted by| | | | | |burning Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC. (Local name- | | | | | |Mukthrubi).

By adding lime water or alkalies, a brick red| | | | | |dye could also be obtained. | | | | | |A leafless, twinning parasite, commonly found in the | | |16. |Cuscuta reflexa Roxb |Uri napu |Manipur Valley. A yellow dye from the whole plant by |Used for dyeing of | | |(Cuscutaceae) [1]. | |crushing in cold water. cotton clothes and in | | | | | |painting. | | | | |A tall tree of common occurrence along the Indo- Myanmar | | |17. |Dipterocarpus turbinatus |Yangou |border at Moreh and Lokchao. A whitish dye is obtained |Used for painting. | | |Gaertn. f. | |from the wood by boiling in water. The same dye could | | | |(Dipterocarpaceae) [1]. |also be obtained from the sap of the plant. | | | | | |A small deciduous tree, very common in the hills of | | |18. |Emblica officinalis Gaertn |Heigru |Manipur. A reddish black dye is obtained from the bark |Used for dyeing of | | |(Euphorbiaceae) [1]. | |and fruits. The dye is extracted by crushing the bark or |fishing nets. | | | | |fruits in cold water and allowed to stand for 48 hrs.

The| | | | | |dye is concentrated by boiling and adding common salt. | | | | | |A deciduous tree with strong incurved prickles, common in| | |19. |Erythrina stricta Roxb |Kurao angangba |the Manipur valley and sometimes planted in the homestead|Used for painting. | | |(Papilionaceae) [1]. | |compounds. A coral red dye is obtained from the dried | | | | | |flowers.

The dried and powdered flowers are added to | | | | | |sufficient amount of cold water and allowed to stand for | | | | | |a few hours. Slake lime and common salts are added as | | | | | |mordants | | | | | | | | |20. Garcinia xanthochymus |Puangthai |Fruits are cut into pieces and soaked in water or cut |Used as adhesive to | | |Hook. f. | |pieces are taken in a clean piece of cloth and squeezed |different dyes. | | |(Guttiferae/Clusiaceae) [2]| |into the water. The prepared liquid is | | | | | |A large shrub, commonly cultivated in the gardens | | |21. |Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Linn|Juba kushum |throughout the state.

A red dye obtained from the fresh |Used for painting | | |(Malvaceae) [1]. | |flowers. The petals are is directly applied to the | | | | | |surface to be colored. In ancient times, the petals were | | | | | |rubbed on the pages of hand written books to protect them| | | | | |from insects. | | | | |A large clumped herb, grows wild in marshy places | | |22. |Iris bakeri Wall |Kombirei |particularly at Lamphel. A deep blue color is obtained |Used for painting. | | |(Iridaceae) [1]. | |from the dried flowers. The flowers are also offered to | | | | | |God on Manipuri New Year’s Day (Cheiraoba). | | | | | | | |23. |Knoxia roxburghii (Spreng. )|Yachubi | |Practiced by different| | |M. A. Rau (Rubiaceae) [2] | |Leaves are chewed by the children to color their teeth |ethnic groups of | | | | |(greenish/brownish). |people of the state | | |Mallotus philippensis | |A small evergreen tree grows wild throughout the valley. | |24. |Muell-Arg (Euphorbiaceae) |Ureirom laba |A crimson red dye is obtained from the fruits. The sun |Used for dyeing silk | | |[1]. | |dried fruits are soaked in cold water to extract the dye. |fabrics. | | | | |A large deciduous tree with very stout branches. A rare | | |25. |Melanorrhoea usitata Wall |Kheu |plant available only in Manipur along the border with |Used for dyeing and | | |(Anacardiaceae) [1]. |Myanmar. An oily blackish dye is obtained from the wood |painting. | | | | |and roots. The crushed and cut plant parts are boiled in | | | | | |water for about25 minutes and cooled down. Acidic dye | | | | | |mordants and common salts are to be added for | | | | | |concentrating the dye. | | | | |A weak, erect under shrub, very common in the hills | | |26. |Osbeckia chinensis Linn |Yachubi |surrounding Manipur Valley. A violet dye is obtained from|Used in olden days for| | |(Melastomataceae) [1]. | |the fruits. The crushed fruits are soaked in local made |coloring teeth. | | | | |wine or country liquor for best results. | | | | |A medium-sized, unarmed tree with spreading branches, | | |27. |Parkia timoriana |Yongchak |very common throughout the state. Also extensively |The filtrate is used | | |(A. DC. )Merr. (Mimosaceae) | |cultivated for the edible fruits. A reddish dye is |for dyeing all types | | |[1]. | |obtained from the stem and fruits.

Pieces of stem and |of fishing nets | | | | |outer green covers of the fruits are soaked in cold water| | | | | |in earthen vessels for 24 hrs. The people of the state | | | | | |use the fruits as delicious food item during winter | | | | | |season. | | | | |A large evergreen tree common in the hills of Manipur. A | | |28. |Pasania pachyphylla (Kurz. )|Kuhi |reddish dye is obtained from the bark. Fresh bark pieces |Used for dyeing | | |Scott (Fagaceae) [1]. | |are soaked in cold water for about 48 hrs. Acidic dye |fishing nets and | | | | |mordants are added before use. cotton fabrics. | | | | |A climber with cordate, elliptic leaves, cultivated | | |29. |Piper betle Linn |Pana mana/Kwa mana|mainly in the Jiribam sub-division. A deep reddish dye is|Used for painting. | | |(Piperaceae) [1]. | |obtained by crushing the fresh leaves along with the | | | | | |seeds of Areca catechu Linn. and lime in cold water. | | | | | | | |30. |Plumbago indica Linn. |Mukaklei |Flowers are collected in large amount and its petals are |Used for dyeing fabric| | |(Plumbaginaceae) [2]. | |crushed and soaked in water. Clothes or yarn threads |and yarn. | | | | |dipped into this liquid acquire pale red color.

This is | | | | | |not regularly used, since it involves collection of large| | | | | |amount of flowers. | | | | | | | | |31. |Polygonum chinense Linn. |Angom Yensil |Crushed whole plant is soaked in water for 2-3 days and |It is used as adhesive| | |(Polygonaceae) [2]. | |the liquid is used as dye. |for dark color. | | | |A reddish brown dye is obtained from the young fruits. | | |32. |Psidium guajava Linn |Pungdon |The dye is extracted by crushing the fruit in cold water. |Used for painting. | | |(Myrtaceae) [1]. | | | | | | | |A shrub with 4-angled branches, cultivated in the | | |33. |Punica granatum Linn |Kaphoi |homestead compounds in the valley areas.

Pieces of the |Used for dyeing | | |(Punicaceae) [1]. | |fruit after removal of the seeds are soaked in cold water|fishing nets. | | | | |to extract the dye. | | | | | |The bark is cut into pieces and soaked in a pitcher | | |34. |Quercus dealbata (Fagaceae)|Shahi |containing water. This plant is used as a substitute for |Used for dyeing of | | |[2]. | |kuhi (Quercus spp. plant. The dye obtained from this |cloths and yarn. | | | | |plant is considered inferior to the ‘kuhi’ dye. | | | | | |A climber with quadrangular stem, grows wild in the | | |35. |Rubia cordifolia Linn |Moyum pambi |forests adjoining Myanmar. A beautiful deep pink dye is |Used for dyeing and | | |(Rubiaceae) [1]. | |obtained from the stem and roots of this plant. The dye |painting. | | | |is extracted by crushing the roots or stem in cold water. | | | | | |Acidic dye mordants are added before dyeing. | | | | | |A much branched, armed shrub, found wild in the | | |36. |Solanum ferox Linn |Khamu |wastelands and forests. A deep chocolate colored dye is |Used only for printing| | |(Solanaceae) [1]. | |obtained from the mature fruits.

The fruits are crushed |of designs and | | | | |and soaked in water for 3 hrs. An equal volume of the |patterns on cotton | | | | |juice extracted from Achyranthes aspera Linn. (Local name|and silk fabrics. | | | | |– Khujum pere) is added to the fruit extract. After | | | | | |adding alkalies, the extract is concentrated by boiling. | | | | |A glabrous shrub often cultivated for the dye in the | | |37. |Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) |Kum |Manipur valley. Brilliant blue and black dyes are |Dyes extracted are | | |Imlay syn. S. | |obtained from the leaves and stem of this plant. Both |most popularly used | | |flaccidifolius Nees | |fresh and dry plant parts can be used for the extraction. |for dyeing of costly | | |(Acanthaceae) [1]. |According to the choice of |loin clothes(locally | | | | |color, the dye is extracted by different methods such as |known as Phanek Mayek | | | | |crushing with water, by fermentation or by boiling. For |Naiba(Kumjingbi, Kum | | | | |extracting blue dye, the fresh leaves are soaked in cold |luppi and Higok | | | | |water for 3 days in airtight earthen vessels.

The dye is |kumballei)) of the | | | | |then concentrated by boiling after the addition of common|womenfolk of the | | | | |salts. For black dye, air dried leaves are pounded in a |state. | | | | |mortar and then fermented in airtight earthen vessels for| | | | | |3 days.

After adding dye mordants, the extract is | | | | | |concentrated by boiling. | | | | | |An annual, cultivated throughout the state for the | | |38. |Tagetes patula Linn |Sanarei |variously colored flowers. The dye is generally extracted|Used in painting. | | |(Asteraceae) [1]. | |from the dried flowers.

The color of the dye depends upon| | | | | |the color of the flowers but generally yellow and golden | | | | | |yellow dyes are extracted. | | | | | |A large tree found in the forests along the border with | | |39. |Tectona grandis Linn. F. |Chingshu |Myanmar, sometimes cultivated. A maroon colored dye is |Used for painting. | | |(Verbenaceae) [1]. |obtained from the leaves while a deep brownish color is | | | | | |obtained from the barks. Either the bark or leaves are | | | | | |first crushed and then soaked in water for 2 hrs. After | | | | | |adding acids or alkalies, the dye is concentrated by | | | | | |boiling. | | | | |A large deciduous tree, grows wild in the Barak Drainage | | |40. |Terminalia citrine Roxb. Ex|Manahee |forest, sometimes cultivated. A blackish dye is obtained |Used for dyeing and | | |Flem (Combretaceae) [1]. | |from the bark. The dye is extracted just by soaking or |painting. | | | | |boiling the bark in water. | | | | | |An quatic perennial herb. Common in marshy areas and | | |41. |Zizania caduciflora |Ishing Kambong |lakes. A black dye is obtained from the culms infected by|Used for dyeing and | | |Hand. -Mazz (Poaceae) [1]. | |a fungus, Melanopsichium |painting. | | | | |esculentum P. Hen. The dye is extracted in cold water. | | Besides the above mentioned 41 species, there are several other plants such as Cascabela thevetia (Linn. Lippold (Local name-Utonglei), Datura stramonium Linn. (Local name-Sangoidak amuba), Impatiens balsamina Linn. (Local name-Khujang), Indigofera tinctoria Linn. (Local name-Neem macha), Ipomoea quamoclit Linn. (Local name-Nunggarei angangba), Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. (Local name-Thambal) and Nymphaea pubescens Willd. (Local name-Tharo) which are used for the extraction of dyes [1]. 2. Plants used as source of Alkaline Dye Mordants The people of the state also use several plants species as mordant for dyes.

These alkaline dye mordants are extracted from the fresh plants or from the ashes of the plant after burning. The ashes are added to water and then filtered. The filtrate is used as alkaline dye mordants. Some of the plants, which are used as alkaline dye mordants, are: Table 2 | Name of the plant |Family |Local Name | | | |Khujum pere | |Achyranthes aspera Linn [1]. Amaranthaceae | | | |Araceae |Hongu | |Alocasia macrorrhiza Schott [1]. | | | | |Zingiberaceae |Pullei | |Alpinia nigra (Gaertn. ) Burtt [1]. | | | |Asteraceae |Uchi sumbal | |Eclipta prostrata Linn [1]. | | | | |Moraceae |Ashi heibong | |Ficus hispida Linn. f. 1] | | | | |Zingiberaceae |Ingenllei | |Hedychium marginatum C. B. Cl [1]. | | | | |Zingiberaceae |Loklei | |Hedychium stenopetalum Lodd [1]. | | | |Musaceae |Laphu | |Musa paradisiaca Linn [1]. | | | | |Solanaceae |Hidak mana | |Nicotiana tabacum Linn [1]. | | | |Papilionaceae |Hawai tharak | |Pisum sativum Linn [1]. | | | 3. Plants used as source of Acidic Dye Mordants Several acidic fruits have also been used a sources of acidic dye mordants. The choice of fruit depends upon the colour of the dye.

Some of the commonly used acidic fruits are: Table 3 |Name of the plant |Family |Local Name | | |Bromeliaceae |Kihom | |Ananas comosus (Linn. )Merr [1]. | | | |Averrhoa carambola Linn [1]. Averrhoaceae |Heinoujom | | |Rutaceae |Heiribob | |Citrus latipes (Swingle) Tanaka [1] | | | | |Rutaceae |Champra | |Citrus limon (Linn. ) Burm. . [1] | | | | |Rutaceae |Heijang | |Citrus medica Linn [1]. | | | | |Euphorbiaceae |Heigru | |Emblica officinalis Gaertn [1]. | | | |Clusiaceae |Heibung | |Garcinia pedunculata Roxb [1]. | | | | |Anacardiaceae |Heinou | |Mangifera indica Linn [1]. | | | |Anacardiaceae |Heimang | |Rhus hookeri Sahni & Bahadur [1] | | | Table 4: Different plants give different shades of color. Ten species are mainly used as main dye | S. No. |Plant |Colour | | |Bixa orellana Linn. Red | |1 | | | | |Carthamus tinctorius Linn. |Pink | |2 | | | |3 |Clerodendrum odoratum D.

Don |Green | | |Curcuma domestica Valeton |Yellow | |4 | | | | |Knoxia roxburghii (Spreng. M. A. Rau |Green | |5 | | | | |Parkia roxburghii G.

Don |Brown | |6 | | | | |Pasania pachyphylla |Dark Brown, Black | |7 | | | | |Plumbago indica Linn. Red | |8 | | | | |Quercus dealbata |Brown | |9 | | | |Strobilanthes flaccidifolius Nees |Black | |10 | | | | |Tectona grandis Linn. f. |Red | |11 | | | CONCLUSION

From the above account, it can be observed that people of Manipur, still extensively use dyes extracted from plants for dyeing of their handloom products. Some of these dyes are also used in fine arts. So far no systematic investigation was carried out to catalog all the dye yielding plants of the state. The specialty of these locally extracted plant dyes is that the synthetic dyes cannot match the particular hue and chroma of these dyes. The people of Manipur can produce these dyes in large scale, commercially by opening factories and can compete with chemical dyes, which are harmful from environmental point of view.

To create awareness of availability and promotion of fabrics items created with natural dyes, suitable promotion and publicity need to be launched. In order to revive the art and to promote the use of natural dyes, it is essential that research and development work on such dyes be placed on an organized footing. It can, thus, be concluded that the study will serve as a source for socio-environmental development of the people of Manipur in particular and for the Nation in general.

REFERENCES . H Manoranjan Sharma et all (A Radhapyari Devi and B Manihar Sharma), Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, Vol. 4(1), January 2005, 42 2. G Akimpou et all (K Rongmei and P S Yadava), Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, Vol. 4(1), January 2005, 34 3. Lunalisa Potsangbam et all (Swapana Ningombam & Warjeet S Laitonjam), Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, Vol. 7(1), January 2008, 142 4. http://www. manipuronline. in/Profile/Geography/ (accessed on 2nd December 2010)