The Deep On Blue

The monstrous beast’s long white fangs sunk deep into my leg. I screamed as loud as I’ve ever screamed before. The pain was unforgiving as I slashed around violently, trying to get free. I could feel the pain spreading through my body when suddenly everything went black… “Ahh!” I screamed panting heavily. I woke up in a cold sweat. My pillow was slightly damp and cold but my face was warm. My room was completely dark except for the slight red glow coming from the sharp red numbers on my alarm clock.

It was 3:28 am. My heart was racing as I was trying to remember what I had just dreamed about. I think there was like a shark or something that had attacked me while I was surfing, but I couldn’t really remember. I didn’t matter though. Nothing like that would ever happen. I almost instantly forgot about it when I laid back down and was out cold immediately.

I woke up to the smell of the salty ocean water and palm trees since I had left my window open last night. My room was chilly as the gentle breeze was flowing through. It was a Tuesday morning in the dead of July, perfect for surfing the day away. My parents aren’t really into that kinda stuff but they support my passion for surfing. They are very loving and want me to succeed in everything I do. My mom is very friendly and loves to chat with everyone she comes in contact with.

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She could chat the whole day away. Her smile is so cheerful, it could light up a whole town. My dad is very humble and loves sports. He could sit on the couch and watch football all day. He loves other sports but football is his thing, and that’s cool with me.

I slipped out of the house before my parents were even awake. I got in the car and headed for the beach. Only about a year ago I got my license and it is the best. I can drive myself to the beach whenever I want. Ever since then, I’ve become quite a good surfer, or my friends think so. I am only 17 but I‘ve been in quite a few local surfing contests and I placed in the top 10 in like 4 of them. That’s pretty good considering there’s usually around 50 or more surfers in those competitions. Usually I just surf for fun. It’s what gets me up in the morning and is the juice that fills my soul. I don’t think I could live more than a week without surfing. The time was about 7 o’clock when I got to the shore. There were only a few surfers here.

All the serious surfers come early in the morning, when the beaches are clear and the waves are big. Some of these dudes looked like they had been here for hours already! The slight breeze against my face felt good as I trotted down to the shore. This was gonna be great. I was laying on top of my board far out in the ocean in only a matter of seconds. I wanted to catch some of the “big boy waves” so I paddled out farther than the norm. I was feeling brave so I kept paddling and breaking overs waves as they rapidly rolled towards me. I kept going when suddenly I felt a presence around me. I thought my brain was just making this up since I was much farther out than usual. I did a quick double take at the water behind me when a fin bigger than the fin on my surfboard popped out of nowhere. Right at that moment I knew I was in trouble.

You’ve gotta be kiddin’!” I exclaimed as I started to panic. My heart was beating faster than it ever has before! I thought it would explode at any moment. My mind was racing, so I started to paddle faster than I ever had in the opposite direction of that beast. I turned around and it was gone… but I knew it wasn’t. I kept paddling and then it was on my right waiting to attack. I pulled my leg onto the board but it was too late. The shark sprung halfway out of the water and sunk its teeth right up to my thigh so hard, I thought I would die any second. A shot of excruciating pain jolted up through my body and I couldn’t bare it. I jerked around violently trying to get free from the shark’s jaw while screaming as loud as I could. All of a sudden, I was out cold.

The next thing I knew, I was laying in bed with a bunch of people around me. What are they doing here? My mom and dad were there and I felt horrible, like I was going to throw up. My right leg was completely numb and covered with thick sheets with dark blood splotched around it. “Where am I?” I asked sounding drowsy yet with urgency. “You’re in the San Elijo hospital, the closest one we could get you to after your crazy shark incident,” said my mom. “You’re lucky you survived that attack!” my dad exclaimed trying to sound positive. “One of the surfers nearby saw you and swam out to help. He said you had passed out once the shark left you with blood pouring out of your leg. He then immediately paddled you back to shore right after the shark stopped biting you and left, where he then called 911.”

One of the doctors chimed in and said, “Your leg was almost clean off if it wasn’t for those strong bones of yours.” “How’s my leg?” I asked sounding worried. The doctor replied trying to be cheerful, “Oh you’ll be fine… Just after some major stitching and a little rehab, you’ll most likely be back to fully functional!” “Ight, cool,” I said happily, but then I remembered… the shark. Maybe, I don’t want to surf ever again… It had been a week since my shark attack. My mind was still in shock from the unforgettable event. I saw my leg after the doctors stitched it up, 238 stitches to be exact. They thought that since it was so gruesome I would freak out if I saw it. The skin around the stitches was starting to heal but my bone was in so much pain. The shark bit down to my bone, damaging some nerves and bruising the bone.

Although the physical damage from the shark was horrid, the fear of getting back in the water was even worse. Some things always heal, while other things may never return to normal. Over a month had passed and my leg was feeling great. The stitches came out about a week ago and I was starting to become fully functional again. My mom said that I should try surfing again, but I’m not so sure. After an accident like that, surfing hasn’t ever sounded appealing to me. I just don’t want to go through that again… even though everyone says that these incidents are so rare. I got to the point where I didn’t even want to come near the beach. The thought of that monstrous beast with those huge sharp teeth frightened me to death. I guess that was the end of my surfing life. All my friends who have found out about my incident really want me to surf again. They say that I would regret not overcoming my fears. I think not.

“What if I’m attacked by one of those crazy sharks again?” I’ll ask when one of them are egging me on to surf again. One of my best friends, Cody, said, “Awe man, don’t worry about those sharks! They ain’t gonna get you no more! “They might bro, you never know what could happen!” “Dude, forget it. Things like that hardly ever happen. Just do what you love most again!” Cody responded. A few days had passed and my parents, and friends talked to me a lot and I think I’m going to surf again. I just gotta do it. It was an early Tuesday morning, a week or two before school starts up again, and I was up and out of the house before 7, the best time for surfing. I got in the car and just stopped. I was thinking that maybe this isn’t what I really want. Do I really need to surf again? Then I thought about how much joy surfing brings me. Riding along that wave with a slight breeze on your back and the white water rippling right under your feet… nothing could be better.

I just didn’t want to go out like this so I was gonna do it and nothing was gonna stop me. I got to the beach and like always only the serious surfers were there at this early in the morning. I grabbed my surfboard and walked across the silky, cool sand. My heart was nervous, but I knew I could do it. I could feel butterflies swarming around my stomach, crashing into the walls. They felt like they would never go away, but I knew they would if I just did what I came here to do. I threw my surfboard out into the water, trotted out, and the rest was just natural. I was finally gonna overcome my fear. I was out in the deep blue where most of the good waves start, but not too far.

My senses were keen, as I looked out for any shark fins that may pop up at any moment. I spotted my first wave and started paddling the direction it was coming. I couldn’t believe I was gonna ride my first wave in forever! I was pumped. I swung my feet onto the surface of my board right as the wave started to push me forward, towards freedom. I stood up and skillfully kept my balance while gliding seamlessly through the rapids as the curl of the wave thrusted me through the ocean. Everything was coming back to me. I felt like I could spread out my wings at any moment and fly, far far away. I had finally overcome my fears. Man this is great. I could do this all day. I went back out into the deep blue and surfed for another 4 and a half hours before coming back home. I must have the best life ever. I defeated my fears, and I knew I was hooked… once again.

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The Deep On Blue. (2021, Dec 26). Retrieved from

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